How To Cut And Sew Nigerian Clothes

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How to Cut And Sew Male Trousers in Nigeria

Credit: https://en.fashionfreaks.se/patterns-and-accessories/patterns-jackets-pants-skirt/mens-pants/sewing-instructions/cutting-the-pattern/

Cutting out the pattern

The front piece of the pattern for men’s pants includes both the pattern for a simple fly solution and a solution with a more complicated fly.

The pattern with the simple fly is cut as in picture A.
The complicated fly is made by cutting the pattern as in picture B.

The type B fly is more difficult to make but is more ‘jeans-like’ and has the option of being able to be made longer for men who require a longer opening. You will also need extra pieces for this fly.

Cut the front and back pieces on double layer of fabric like this.

Add seam allowance (at least 1cm) to all edges and 2,5-3cm to the hems.

Remember that you can measure and adapt the length of the pants legs to suit your leg length. Depending on your seating posture the pattern length can be more or less suited for you. If you want to make sure, cut the pants slightly longer than you need. It is easier to shorten the leg length than making them longer if necessary.

The waistband is cut as one piece unless the width of the fabric is too short. In this case you have to cut it in two sections (remember to add seam allowance to the edges) and then join it in the back.

If you are going to use the more complicated fly, add a few extra cm (around 5 cm) to the end of the waistband.
The extra pieces on the pattern sheet
for the complicated fly are cut x 1, e.g. on single layer fabric. For the short fly cut one piece of extra part 1 and 2. For longer fly, cut one piece of extra part 3 and 4.

These patter pieces need to be layed out on the front side of the fabric when being cut so the pieces are facing the right way for the pants.

Remember to add seam allowance.

How to Cut And Sew Female Trousers in Nigeria

Credit: http://valisimofashions.com/simple-female-trouser-tutorial/

Long post alert… but if you manage to read to the end you shouldn’t have problems with trousers anymore.

Making trousers is one of the simplest projects I love doing, especially where the flyer is not needed. In the picture above, we see that the opening for the zip on this trouser is at the back, this means that this type of trousers is easier to make.

Measurements Areas Needed  

The diagram above shows the areas to measure when sewing female trousers.

1) Waist

2) Hip

3) Thigh

4) Knee

5) Calf

6) Instep

How to  measure crouch depth 

The diagram above shows two ways one can measure crouch depth. One way is ideal the other is not.

Putting your tape rule under a lady to measure her crouch depth as shown in the diagram above might take your beloved tape measure to places it would rather not go. Especially during periods the conditions there is not right ?? so the second way of measuring the crotch depth is more practical. Let your client sit down while you measure from her waist to the base of the chair, what ever measurements you get is her crouch depth. You can also take yours using the same process. See diagram below.

Theory Of Blocks   

Remember the theory of blocks in pattern construction? We have the front block and the back, but unlike skirt that has front and back our trousers have further divisions, meaning front block is divided into two, the back block is also divided into two.

Calculation For Cutting  Female Trousers 

Step 1. Divide the measurements for waist and hip into 4.

Step 2. Divide the measurement for thighs, knees, Calf, and Instep into 2

Step 3. The hip is the largest of all the circumferences here so use your derived measurement for the hip after your division into 4 to get your base for the blocks

Let’s use this Ankara to illustrate.

The plain paper is the base for my blocks, I want to create the design on the right. You see my plain paper is marked.your base should be into 4 for all the block division.

This is where you place your crouch depth measurement. Whatever measurement you got while measuring your crouch depth would be pleased on one side of your fabric starting from the waist down. Then you measure in about 2.5 to 3.5 depending on your size or more. See where my pencil is in the picture above. That’s where you take your 2.5 to 3.5 if need be. Then you curve it to from the crouch area. Sturdy the picture above well. Remember your base is in 4 folds.

The picture above shows how you place your measurements and link each figure together. Mark the waist measurement, add the hip and mark it. place your thigh measurement also and link all to the knee from both sides.

From the knee,you determine the shape of the ankle area ….if you want it big or small. For this Ankara design we will make it big.

I think it’s time I show you my present inspiration…….boli ati epa? I had to snack on this Nigerian delicacy roasted plantain and groundnuts washed down with a cold bottle of water……it’s amazing if you haven’t tried it?

OK back to class.

Remember your base for the blocks is 4, now the four can be cut equally or cut in such a way that the two blocks for the front is smaller than the two blocks at the back by 2 inches but at the end, the trouser will fit the initial measurement you started with. It just means you calculate the front smaller while the back will be bigger ensuring your measurements is the same.

This perticular Ankara trouser is cut the same…..meaning all four blocks are equal.when you cut yours don’t forget seam allowance for joining on all sides.

For the zip.The Ankara trouser has its zip at the back meaning it can be fixed the same way you fix a skirt zip.But if you want to fix the zip in front like regular trousers have flyers you cut it this way…..see diagram below

The Sewing

To sew,sew each leg separately on the side seam and inseam. Then sew both together at the crouch up to the point for zip

Ankara Top

Time to talk about the top for the Ankara trouser. The cut is so simple.place fabric on fold for front and back block measure out your length of top….wideness of bust waist and hip if need be.Get your arm hole area then cut out.

Here is the back block see diagram above. To do this cut the exact measurement you cut for the front.slash that into 2 and then shape it to get the design at the back.Add rope for holding the neck in place.

How to cut and sew female trousers videos

How to Cut Six Pieces Skirt Beginner Tutorial

When you mention pieces skirts the first thing that comes to one’s mind in Nigeria is 6 pieces. But at the end of this post, that impression would change for many.

Since most are familiar with 6 pieces let’s start from there. See the explanations and pictures below

The principles behind cutting pieces skirts is as follows

1) Divide your Hip measurement into the number of pieces you want e.g  40 ÷ 6 = 6.6

Now what ever you get, add 1 inch for seam allowance. 6.6 + 1 = 7.6

2) Divide your circumference into the available fabric for the style eg I have 3 yards for this project. 3 yards = 36 x 3 = 108

108 ÷ 6 = 18 

Add 1 inch for seam allowance to the 18 = 19

Your panel would look like this. On your panel mark the waist, hip, knee, and circumference

So from the waist to the knee, cut it to 7.6. From the knee, shape it to 19

At the waist, you make each panel smaller to fit your waist measurement.

You repeat this process for all the panels,6 or more. Depending on where you want your zip to be, you might need to divide the center back panel into 2 for the zip. If your zip will be on the side you wouldn’t need to.

Pieced skirts can be cut in several ways. Today let us to study 3 different ways of cutting Pieced skirt.

1) Vertical method 

2) Horizontal method

3) Diagonal method 

Vertical Method 

The 6 pieces vertical method of cutting is the most common type seen in Nigeria for a lot of reasons.

1) Fabric available. If it’s a lace fabric it would likely be 5 yards. If it’s Ankara Fabric it will be 6 yards.

Many times a creative designer is forced to manage whatever fabric available. That can make the designer always go for 6 pieces designs each time they sew.

2) Request from clients because they only know about six pieces skirt. A client is likely to always request for 6 pieces because that’s all they know of or see from pages of magazines.

It’s your job as a designer to show her more options so she doesn’t always go for 6 pieces skirt.

3) The go-to style for a designer who is not too creative. Some designers are too comfortable with the regular that they never create a trend. They are content with copying a style other designers made from A-Z.

Now you can have many variations of this vertical pieces skirt. The cuts can be less than 6 or more than 6.

It can have a division on one or more of the panels. The waist to the knee will be pieces while you add other methods of sewing at the down part like Gathers, Flare, Pleats, Godets. The bottom part can be in pieces too if you want.

The back can be extended to create a design

You can make it as 12 pieces.

Using the principles above. If my hip is 44. That means 44 ÷ 12 = 3.6

3.6 + 1 for seam allowance on each panel. =4.6

For the fabric let say I have 4 yards for it.that means 36 × 4 = 144

144 ÷ 12 = 12 (plus 1 inch.for seam =13)

On the vertical type of cutting you can go more than 6 pieces. Just make sure you add adequate seam allowance for sewing.

Horizontal Method

This method of cutting Pieced skirts simply means that instead of your cuts to come from waist down as the vertical,it’s from side to side.

It can be flared or fitted from the waist  to the knee,then full from the knee down

The principle of cutting this type of skirts is also very simple. First cut your pattern to your exact measurement (e.g. waist hip knee length  full length) then divide your pattern to the number of pieces you want.

Now place your Pieced pattern on your main fabric and cut each out with 1inch extra for seam allowance to join it .It means your main fabric will be longer than your patten when you factor in the seam allowances. 

Diagonal Method 

Just like the Horizontal method is cut with patten so also is the Diagonal method cut with pattern.

The Horizontal method is cut from side to side but the Diagonal method is cut in a slanted form.you can slant it from the left side down or the right side down.you can also have several cuts on it.

Just make sure you add adequate seam allowance to it so you can sew each piece together without disturbing the actual length of the style. 

With this write up you can now see that you don’t have to always make 6pieces skirt for yourself or your clients.

Some downloadable videos on how to cut six pieces skirt for Nigerians:

HOW TO CUT SIX PIECES SKIRT VIDEOS

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